Review: Waterfront Bistro

By Crystal Bray

Duck entree at Waterfront Bistro

I had a special occasion recently, an anniversary with my boyfriend that we felt warranted some celebrating in the form of a night out and a nice dinner. Where, was the question.

We talked about all the old standbys, tried and true. There are a lot of good restaurants on-island that would be perfect for a romantic dinner for two, and we were feeling ambivalent. Thankfully, a couple of girlfriends had wrangled me into a much-needed night out earlier that week, and they were excited to try the new restaurant that recently opened in Wharfside Village. Waterfront Bistro now occupies the same space previously inhabited by Panini Beach, and its construction was overseen with anticipation by anyone traversing that section of Wharfside in the past few months. Although it was difficult to ascertain how it would all turn out though all of the plastic and dust, I'm happy to say that the finished product is a very fine space indeed, and one that bears scant resemblance to its predecessor.

A lot of restaurants open on-island to much fanfare, only to fold within a season or to take a quick dive in concept and/or food quality. I sincerely hope that this isn't the case with Waterfront Bistro, because I really love this place. That night, my friends and I had a fabulous dinner, accompanied with a well-chosen bottle of wine from the restaurant's ample and varied selection. Conversation flowed easily and intimately, which is also a nod to the Bistro's décor. Despite the fact that there's plenty of seating to be had within the eatery's spacious interior, the tables are spaced apart just enough to afford privacy. Even though we were seated next to a family with two toddlers and an infant, I completely forgot they were there and I certainly never felt as though we were all one giant table. Often, restaurants on St. John pack too many tables into a dining area in an effort to accommodate as many covers as possible. For an upscale restaurant like Waterfront Bistro, the experience of dining should be about the food but also about the ambience. So far, they've got it right. The décor is simple and clean; white linen and umber create a minimalist canvas where the food is allowed to take center stage. The food, in addition to being presented beautifully, is some of the best I've ever had on St. John. Meat dishes take the spotlight on the menu, and I would recommend opting for a non-vegetarian option when visiting Waterfront Bistro. On my first visit, my friend settled on the lamb loin, which was cooked to perfection and presented a bold, smoky flavor that was new and different. I opted for the duck, which was also cooked superbly and is the best duck I've ever had in a St. John restaurant, by far. And I loves me some duck. You know how irritating it is when you order something medium rare and it comes out well done? You won't have that experience at Waterfront Bistro.

In addition to the scrumptiousness of the main event, the plates were well-balanced and inventively paired with sides: the lamb with a smoked bacon potato salad and pattypan squash, and the duck with lentils, papaya and an amazing confit ragout, served pulled and on the side in a non-traditional twist. My third friend chose the veggie risotto, and, while it was both flavorful and beautifully presented, the rice was just a tad mushy and this dish paled in comparison to our carnivorous feast. Like I said: go to Waterfront Bistro for the meat dishes. That evening, we also sampled a trio of great appetizers, readying our palates with the amazing foie gras, oysters on the half shell, and a wonderfully simple salad with oranges, hazelnuts, and a splash of crème fraiche vinaigrette.

I had such a great experience at Waterfront Bistro with my friends that I thought it would be just the place to celebrate an anniversary. My man agreed and we made a reservation the next week.

I was a bit worried that, Murphy's Law being what it is, my first experience might have been a fluke and I would have dragged my boyfriend to a restaurant still working out its opening glitches. Not so, I'm happy to report. If possible, my second experience at Waterfront Bistro topped the first, and I can't wait to go again (my wallet might disagree but, hey, what's life if you don't eat well?). My one small complaint about the restaurant from my first visit, which would have been that I felt we were over-served (which is really more of a critique of upscale American restaurants in general, which, unlike European establishments, seem to feel that fine dining means being bombarded with a flurry of waitstaff before one even has a chance to settle in and get a look at the menu), was not a problem on the second trip, and our service was prompt without being overdone. This may seem like a small thing, but it's important when you're trying to have a nice, intimate dinner with someone. Good service can make the difference between a good restaurant and a great one.

As far as the food went on the second excursion, I think I'm still drooling. My companion had the duck, which he insisted was just as fabulous as I'd described, while I chose the Black Angus filet minion. At the price you pay for filet, it should be cooked perfectly, and it definitely was this night. A heavy entrée, they kept the sides light and the small amount of celery root and potato puree and green beans (haricot verts) were ideal compliments to the steak, topped with a delicious mushroom sauce. We began our meal with a nice bottle of Italian red and sampled the foie gras, about which I'd been raving since my first trip. Served in a star anise glaze with marinated figs and a roasted shallot, the foie gras was fabulous on each of my visits. We also sampled the lobster bisque, which was very good but an offering that didn't stand out above the rest. While there are a lot of restaurants on-island that do a good lobster bisque, there are few that cook meat to perfection, and this is where Waterfront Bistro distinguishes itself. I also love the shallot butter they serve with warm, crusty rolls. Yum!

For dessert, our server informed us that, should we wish to try the special chocolate soufflé, we should enter our order 20 minutes in advance. We quickly signed ourselves up, and had ample time to sip our wine and digest a bit before the third course was served. The soufflé was divine, and came accompanied by a duo of sauces that were each amazing. One was a raspberry coulis and the other a passionfruit englaze.

Fancy but accessible, the dishes of Waterfront Bistro are full of interesting flavor pairings without being overwrought. They know how to let the food shine and it does speak for itself. The dishes are innovative twists on classic plates without trying too hard to be avante garde. Head chef, Erica Miner, formerly of La Tapa fame, is doing great things at Waterfront Bistro, and if you come by you can see for yourself. With a view into the kitchen from the dining area, it's nice to look over and see the kitchen staff in their white coats, hard at work. Although patrons can see into the kitchen, however, it is not the focal point, which is a nice nod to this trend of the open kitchen without going overboard and making it a glorified floorshow. That's what I like about Waterfront Bistro: nothing's overdone, overblown, over-the-top. It's just right. The view you really want to take in is the water, anyway, as Waterfront Bistro is definitely maximizing its prime location, nestled in the mangroves of Cruz Bay beach. I know I'll be back, as soon as my disposable income recovers, to sample more of the wonderful fare at St. John's best new restaurant. Keep up the good work!

It is the Sun Times' policy to visit restaurants at least twice before writing a review. We feel this is necessary to get a real sense of what an establishment has to offer. In the case of Waterfront Bistro, however, we've collectively dined there on three separate occasions...and entered their number in our cell phones' speed dial....

Waterfront Bistro, located in Wharfside Village, Cruz Bay: (340) 777-7755

Open 7 days a week 11-2:30 for lunch and 5:30-10 for dinner.