Hiking - Jewel of the Park

Our most popular hike for good reason, the Reef Bay Trail has it all

by Debbie Hime

By visitors and locals alike, the Reef Bay Trail is often considered the jewel of St. John's National Park trails. This is a popular trail for many reasons, and there is so much more to experience and explore than there is room in this article - do a little bit of research before you go, online or at the National Park Center, so you get the most out of the hike!

The trail begins on the south side of Centerline Road about 4.9 miles out of Cruz Bay where there is a stone wall with steps leading down to the trailhead marker below. This is where I usually comment to those who haven't done this trail: "Just remember, it's going to be much harder coming back up, so don't let the downhill momentum fool you." It's a mostly shady, 937-foot descent on this 2.1-mile trail, and with the chance to explore ruins and ghuts (ravines) along the way and a beach waiting for you at the end, this hike usually takes at least 3 hours or longer - but it's worth it! Just plan to go early, take lots of water, and leave plenty of your energy to get back up (and I mean UP) to Centerline.

Here's a snapshot of some of my favorite experiences on Reef Bay Trail:

- One of the best photo ops on all of St. John is the HUGE kapok tree, which is right on the trail. Also, you can't miss the tree with the big spikes covering it, locally known as a monkey-no-climb for obvious reasons. If you miss these two trees along the way, you're not taking the time to really relish the exceptional beauty of this trail.

- Less than halfway down the trail is an old sugar plantation with great old ruins to explore in the Josie Ghut. It's really easy to be focused on your final destination and miss these ruins, which are just steps off the trail, so check your map and keep one eye up.

- Of course, everyone likes taking the spur trail to the waterfalls and St. John's famous petroglyphs, which is closer to the end of the trail. This is a very flat, easy walk (maybe 0.3 miles in) with very little effort needed to reach the waterfalls and to view the carvings on the rocks opposite (as long as there has not been a lot of rain; then the carvings may be under the waterline).

- The ruins at the end of the trail have a long and illustrious history, and you will enjoy the experience much more if you research it beforehand or do what I do: take the book "St. John: Off the Beaten Path" and read out loud this grand old estate's history while you're there.

- Some of my favorite nickel knowledge about this trail is the story of the bathroom (yes!) at the end. Rumor has it that when former President Lyndon B. Johnson's wife, Lady Bird, was hosted by the National Park Service to hike down the trail, she asked at the end where the bathroom was located. The rest is history.

- If you want a really unique Park experience, go on one of the weekly Ranger-guided hikes (usually with our Green columnist, Jessica Hornbeck!), which includes a ride to the trailhead and a boat ride back to Cruz Bay from the beach for a nominal fee (340-776-6201).

Whether you are visiting or live here, you will enjoy some of the Park's most popular treasures when experiencing the Reef Bay Trail.

See you on the trails!

D

Hike Details

Difficulty: Moderate-Difficult
Distance: 2.1 miles (with several short spur trails)
Time: 3+ hours
Elevation Gain: 937 feet
Location: about 5 miles up Centerline Rd. from Cruz Bay

Debbie Hime has lived in the Caribbean off and on since '89 (on St. John for seven years) and is an avid "fair weather" hiker and trail runner. Contact her at debbie@savantmediagroup.com .

March 2010