A Honeyed Tongue

by Kelly O’Brien

Whether drizzled on scones, spooned into teacups or baked into breads, honey brings an earthy sweetness to any dish. But not all honeys are created equal.

“Different flowers give you different honey,” says Roniel “Honeyman” Allembert, a second-generation beekeeper on St. Croix. Those differences range from the color of the honey to the flavors and aromas it gives off – turns out honey, as much as wine or coffee, has a distinct terroir.

Mr. Small, St. John’s most venerable beekeeper, says he’s gotten as many as eight different shades of honey, and Allembert says he also sees a range of different hues and opacities. Beyond color, though, the individual flavors and aromas of a given batch of honey can tell you what flower or fruit the honeybees visited.

As you’ve no doubt read, Virgin Islands honey is on the rise. With the coming influx of delicious local honeys, we thought we’d give you a taste of what’s in store, and a few ideas of what to do with this island treasure:

Allembert currently has a batch of medium-hued honey that is bursting with fruit flavors. Very sweet and the color of perfectly clear caramel, it has all the flavor of a tropical fruit salad, with a tamarind finish that will linger on your palate. A honey like this would be perfect in a vinaigrette or paired with seafood or chicken in a pan sauce or reduction. Call the Honeyman at 772-1772 for information on how to get a bottle for yourself.

One of the few local honeys available retail is the West Indian Honey produced by Sunny Caribbee on Tortola. Slightly lighter, this honey has a lovely amber color, and tastes as fresh and clear as it looks. With its crisp tang and clean finish, such a honey would be delightful in baklava, as it would contrast the rich, buttery pastry and highlight the flavor of the lemon juice. Sunny Carribee’s honey is available at St. John Spice by the ferry dock.

Currently, our favorite jar of Mr. Small’s fare is from the batch of dark-as-the-night-sky honey he harvested this summer. This honey is like a really fine dark chocolate in that it has more of a velvety richness than an overt sweetness. That said, it does rise to a moment of fruity sweetness before tapering off and leaving you to savor its molasses-like texture. This is a luscious replacement for syrup on pancakes, and its bold flavors would hold up very well in baked goods. To sample Mr. Small’s honey, rustle up a couple of empty jars and give him a call at 776-6390 to make the arrangements!

October 9th, 2008