Food Review: The Tamarind's Gastrogrub

by Kelly O'Brien 

Gastrogrub Night
The Inn at Tamarind Court, Cruz Bay
Starters run $7-$9, entrees $9-$14, and sides $5-$7.
Thursdays, 5-9pm
(340) 776-6378
www.gastrogrub.com

If you were to choose a single word to describe the new Gastrogrub night at the Inn at Tamarind Court, it would definitely be “unexpected.” Every item on the menu has a twist (the spinach and brie on the potato skins), a turn (the tangy orange reduction on the asparagus spears) or even one of each (the chipotle and blue cheese snuck into the cornbread). If you need a break from your regularly scheduled Italian, Barbeque, and Sushi rotation, Gastrogrub is what you’ve been waiting for.

The all à la carte menu is small but pithy. Appetizers are on the filling side, and could definitely stand in for a meal – in particular the sinfully rich Swedish meatballs and, by all accounts, the pierogies. (Lamentably, by the time we arrived the pierogies had run out, which seems to be a regular occurrence due to their popularity. If you’re looking to scratch a pierogie itch, plan accordingly!)

Entrees are brilliantly executed – the pork braised in locally brewed Tropical Mango Pale Ale was fork-tender and flavorful, and the Fliggity Flank Steak was a perfect, toothsome medium rare. The blue ribbon, though, goes to the Gangsta Mac N Cheez – you simply cannot go wrong with seven different kinds of cheese. Adding a dash of truffle oil gives the dish an edge of delicious nuttiness – definitely worth the extra $2 to “truffle’ize it.” In fact, diners have the option of adding either truffle oil or bacon (or both – why not?) to any item on the menu.

It being an experimental menu, Gastrogrub night did have a few dishes that were more misses than hits. When we read Broke N Drunk Shrimp we were thinking beer + shrimp = beer-battered! Not so. The appetizer was a bland sort of beer-based shrimp scampi served with toast.  Also, while the chipotle & blue cheese cornbread sounded great on the page and certainly had interesting flavors, its dry density kept it from success.

But even in the case of a disappointing dish, you’ve got the option to finish your meal with a smile. The Fluffernutella is fun to say, and better to eat. The pair of tempura-fried banana fritters shot through with Nutella have a not-too-sweet richness that is best enjoyed with a scoop of vanilla ice cream (ask your waitress to hook you up).

The best way to take advantage of Gastrogrub night is definitely with a group – just order one of most everything, pass it around family-style and prepare to loosen your belt with a satisfied sigh at meal’s end.

October 9th, 2008