Prime Time

Prime Time

For all your classic steakhouse needs, Cruz Bay Prime has got you covered.

Written by Kelly O’Brien

Reporting by the Sun Times  Staff

Tucked beneath the soaring rafters of the Westin’s lobby, Cruz Bay Prime has heralded the arrival of classic steakhouse cuisine to St. John’s dinner landscape. The first thing you will notice, when you walk up the entry staircase, is how little Prime resembles its predecessor, Chloe & Bernard’s. The space – open and elegant – has been thoroughly renovated, and now has a comfortably chic, Art Deco air that’s hard to resist.

Step through the doors, and you’re immediately in capable hands. Attentive without being intrusive, Prime’s waitstaff will take good care of you, and if you’re not inclined to dine, the tenders of the well-stocked bar are equally adept.

The kitchen is lead by chef Peter Hamm, a recent addition to St. John’s culinary community (he moved from Grand Rapids, Mich., six months ago). Hamm and his team execute the steakhouse standbys well, and also offer more imaginative fare with up to half a dozen nightly specials (for example: a mango-grilled Tasmanian shrimp appetizer, with an avocado and heirloom tomato salad, $15). But, with those nightly exceptions, Prime’s menu doesn’t stray far from the footsteps of Smith & Wollensky.

On the first of our outings, the meal began with an amuse-bouche that made a fine first impression. A peppery “grilled and chilled” tomato soup, it did precisely what an amuse is meant to do – it opened up the palate with a cascade of flavors and left you in eager anticipation of the meal to come.

Prime being a steakhouse and all, one should be prepared for a dining experience that caters heavily to a carnivorous demographic. (You’re also covered if you eat seafood – the paella, $32, is excellent – but straight up vegetarians will likely find themselves special ordering.)

Start your meal with one of the many apps or salads available; the Caesar, $9, definitely passed muster, especially when paired with a bright, dry prosecco from the well-curated wine list. From there, the menu adheres to the traditional format: steaks are ordered solo, and the sides, all $7, come family-style, emphasis on family – each one of these could serve two generously, three easily, and four if you shared a few.

Nor do they skimp on the steaks. The 16 oz. prime rib, $45, is perfect to share and an excellent cut of meat. Unfortunately, on one of our visits this steak came out overcooked and overseasoned, but on another it was delectable, cooked to a perfect medium-rare that was buttery on the inside and with a perfect char on the outside. The 8 oz. filet mignon, $28, broke the tie in Prime’s favor, as did the immensely satisfying macaroni and cheese side, loaded with smoked gouda, parmesan, and mascarpone.

If you find yourself with an occasion to really indulge (and no desire to go to bed early), finish off your meal at Prime with an espresso crème brulée, $9, and small French press of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee, $12 – both are decadent and lovely.

Chances are good that a meal at Prime isn’t going to stretch your culinary boundaries much, but if you have an appreciation for a fine cut of beef and a killer creamed spinach, then you’re in for a treat.

Note: The Sun Times policy is to visit a restaurant at least three times before committing to a review. We attend anonymously, and do not accept freebies!